Post by Tom Dolan on Sept 27, 2008 15:55:19 GMT -7
Front Range Vintage Slot Car & Historical Racing Club Judging Standards for Concours Events
Reflecting the character of the FRVS&HR Club, and the intention in holding these concours “contests”, these rules are relatively simple and offer the judges some latitude.The primary standard for your being a judge is to be consistent in the manner you judge all entries and achieve a balance in reviewing the different areas of construction in each entry — regardless of whether you know/suspect who the builder is, or not.1) The most important criteria in comparing entries is the quality of the workmanship, in all areas of construction. Quality comes first; before accuracy, complexity, subject, or source of the components. What we do not want is car that has apparent flaws, even though it has obvious scale charm or technical complexity, winning over a less-appealing entry whose assembly is hard to fault. The builder has to build it right before the builder attempts more difficult construction.2) Evaluate the paint quality, neatness & accuracy of assembly, and the smoothness of operation of typically operating features–where applicable–such as guide shoe, free-running axles/wheels, and the geared drive train.3) If you have two, or more, competing slot cars of similar quality, apply your judgement in weighing the additional factors, such as: Scale Representation; Complexity of Construction (including the amount of scratchbuilding); Special Features (such as working lights or suspension); and Difficulty in the Subject Chosen (such as an 30’s open wheel car with separate fenders).The two or more cars of similar quality involved in this “tie breaking” process Do Not have to be of identical quality, but should be enough of Similar Quality, such that when all judging is done, quality should still constitute 80% or more of the reason these finalists are even competing. Specific Notes for Clarification:A) Accuracy to a full-scale subject will ONLY be considered when documentation is provided, and, use it as the only reference, regardless of whether you believe the documentation to be correct. No one judge, or group of judges, can be equally knowledgeable on every subject entered, so it is unfair to add/subtract “points” on the basis that you have more personal knowledge on one subject over another. However, you should use your judgement to assess all competing entries for how well they capture the general character of the period that the car represents.B) A slot car will not be “marked down” for simply using a vacuformed body and being painted on the inside -- however, the quality of the body, its detailing, and its workmanship are still directly comparable.C) Components whose quality comes as-purchased from the component manufacturer and was not produced by the builder should be given a lesser value, such as a factory paint job. The emphasis here is on building, not buying.D) Included in, but not limited to, those items considered in Complexity are such matters as: Relative size of the subject & difficulty of “packaging” the running gear; Delicacy of the model; Amount of finished open/visible areas; How elaborate are the paint & markings; How much scratchbuilding was required, and Additional working features.E) Slot cars may be entered sitting on a display base, which may be no larger than 14”x14”, however the base itself and any other details that are not part of, and mounted to, the car, will not be considered in the judging. To any degree that base restricts the judges’ ability to review the car, the entrant is solely responsible for this risk, and the judges bear no responsibility to look past, around, under, etc. any base details to observe the car. The “Fine Print” -- By club rules, a concourse entry should meet the following criteria:• The slot car must represents an actual model of car/racecar that was built before 1977 (thus built in 1976, or earlier), though it need not represent any specific driver/team/race, though these are desirable. While vintage slot cars that never represented full scale subjects are welcome at club events, they are not eligible for entry in the concours event.• The slot car must be able to move (with at least modest speed) on typical race tracks, when supplied with typical power for that class/brand of slot car. The car must be powered solely by the electrical power typically supplied by the track and by an onboard electric motor. That the car can move under the power of its own motor need not be proven at a concourse, but the car must be able to demonstrate that its motor can spin one or more wheels with enough apparent force that the car can do more than creep forward. Also included in the judges assessment are the ability of the wheels to roll where necessary and some practical form of guide flag/shoe/pin and electrical pickup.• The car must be entered by the builder, or in the builder’s name. Someone cannot enter a car in their own name that they did not do the large majority (75% or more) of the work on.• No car that won it’s category may be reentered in that category (or equivalent category) for a period of 5 years. Rules Specific to Only the 1/32 Curbside Class:1) Car must still meet all operational, period (1976 & earlier), and full-scale representation rules for the other classes. In effect, all existing rules still apply, except where the following supercede them for this class.2) Car will be judged only as it sits on its wheels -- the underside, drivetrain, and other such items that are not visible when it sits on its wheels, will not be considered. Also, operating features will not be considered, such as lights, working steering, and such. The car will not be picked up for judging (though it may be moved as necessary for category table arrangement), and no mirrors will be used.3) The car will be judged on the quality of its appearance, and when veiwed from no closer than 12” distance. Therefore, the burden of the scoring will be from fit & finish, surface detailing, accurate character, and presentation. However, whatever is visible (guide shoe is t he exception) is part of the judging, so this includes the interior, exposed engine/suspension components, grills, scoops & other openings, and even wheel wells.4) While the character of this class lends itself more closely to off-the-shelf manufacturer-built models, it is still a class for individual builders, not simply buyers, so the existing rules about some workmanship by the entrant being required still stand.
Reflecting the character of the FRVS&HR Club, and the intention in holding these concours “contests”, these rules are relatively simple and offer the judges some latitude.The primary standard for your being a judge is to be consistent in the manner you judge all entries and achieve a balance in reviewing the different areas of construction in each entry — regardless of whether you know/suspect who the builder is, or not.1) The most important criteria in comparing entries is the quality of the workmanship, in all areas of construction. Quality comes first; before accuracy, complexity, subject, or source of the components. What we do not want is car that has apparent flaws, even though it has obvious scale charm or technical complexity, winning over a less-appealing entry whose assembly is hard to fault. The builder has to build it right before the builder attempts more difficult construction.2) Evaluate the paint quality, neatness & accuracy of assembly, and the smoothness of operation of typically operating features–where applicable–such as guide shoe, free-running axles/wheels, and the geared drive train.3) If you have two, or more, competing slot cars of similar quality, apply your judgement in weighing the additional factors, such as: Scale Representation; Complexity of Construction (including the amount of scratchbuilding); Special Features (such as working lights or suspension); and Difficulty in the Subject Chosen (such as an 30’s open wheel car with separate fenders).The two or more cars of similar quality involved in this “tie breaking” process Do Not have to be of identical quality, but should be enough of Similar Quality, such that when all judging is done, quality should still constitute 80% or more of the reason these finalists are even competing. Specific Notes for Clarification:A) Accuracy to a full-scale subject will ONLY be considered when documentation is provided, and, use it as the only reference, regardless of whether you believe the documentation to be correct. No one judge, or group of judges, can be equally knowledgeable on every subject entered, so it is unfair to add/subtract “points” on the basis that you have more personal knowledge on one subject over another. However, you should use your judgement to assess all competing entries for how well they capture the general character of the period that the car represents.B) A slot car will not be “marked down” for simply using a vacuformed body and being painted on the inside -- however, the quality of the body, its detailing, and its workmanship are still directly comparable.C) Components whose quality comes as-purchased from the component manufacturer and was not produced by the builder should be given a lesser value, such as a factory paint job. The emphasis here is on building, not buying.D) Included in, but not limited to, those items considered in Complexity are such matters as: Relative size of the subject & difficulty of “packaging” the running gear; Delicacy of the model; Amount of finished open/visible areas; How elaborate are the paint & markings; How much scratchbuilding was required, and Additional working features.E) Slot cars may be entered sitting on a display base, which may be no larger than 14”x14”, however the base itself and any other details that are not part of, and mounted to, the car, will not be considered in the judging. To any degree that base restricts the judges’ ability to review the car, the entrant is solely responsible for this risk, and the judges bear no responsibility to look past, around, under, etc. any base details to observe the car. The “Fine Print” -- By club rules, a concourse entry should meet the following criteria:• The slot car must represents an actual model of car/racecar that was built before 1977 (thus built in 1976, or earlier), though it need not represent any specific driver/team/race, though these are desirable. While vintage slot cars that never represented full scale subjects are welcome at club events, they are not eligible for entry in the concours event.• The slot car must be able to move (with at least modest speed) on typical race tracks, when supplied with typical power for that class/brand of slot car. The car must be powered solely by the electrical power typically supplied by the track and by an onboard electric motor. That the car can move under the power of its own motor need not be proven at a concourse, but the car must be able to demonstrate that its motor can spin one or more wheels with enough apparent force that the car can do more than creep forward. Also included in the judges assessment are the ability of the wheels to roll where necessary and some practical form of guide flag/shoe/pin and electrical pickup.• The car must be entered by the builder, or in the builder’s name. Someone cannot enter a car in their own name that they did not do the large majority (75% or more) of the work on.• No car that won it’s category may be reentered in that category (or equivalent category) for a period of 5 years. Rules Specific to Only the 1/32 Curbside Class:1) Car must still meet all operational, period (1976 & earlier), and full-scale representation rules for the other classes. In effect, all existing rules still apply, except where the following supercede them for this class.2) Car will be judged only as it sits on its wheels -- the underside, drivetrain, and other such items that are not visible when it sits on its wheels, will not be considered. Also, operating features will not be considered, such as lights, working steering, and such. The car will not be picked up for judging (though it may be moved as necessary for category table arrangement), and no mirrors will be used.3) The car will be judged on the quality of its appearance, and when veiwed from no closer than 12” distance. Therefore, the burden of the scoring will be from fit & finish, surface detailing, accurate character, and presentation. However, whatever is visible (guide shoe is t he exception) is part of the judging, so this includes the interior, exposed engine/suspension components, grills, scoops & other openings, and even wheel wells.4) While the character of this class lends itself more closely to off-the-shelf manufacturer-built models, it is still a class for individual builders, not simply buyers, so the existing rules about some workmanship by the entrant being required still stand.
